MOST poultry keepers, whether they have a few birds or many, find the challenge of reproducing new life irresistible. If you haven't succumbed yet, I warn you, incubation can be very addictive. But, if you want to hatch a few chicks for pets, for that exhibition prize winner or for future table birds, a successful incubation begins long before you set the eggs.

Ideally you think about what needs to be hatched a month or two beforehand and you ask yourself several questions. Do I need chicks? Have I the right breeding stock? When is the best time to incubate? How will I incubate?

All these questions are valid because a successful hatch begins with the parent stock and whether or not they are fit and in good health. For instance, if you have a poor quality cockerel, then he is unlikely to produce strong, healthy chicks that will eventually be good examples of that breed. So only incubate eggs from your best stock.

Feed correctly for eggs Nutrition is an important element in the good health of breeding stock. If poultry are not given the necessary formula for keeping themselves healthy and active, as well as help with producing good quality eggs, then first rate chicks will not be forthcoming. Breeding stock should be fed on breeders pellets ideally, these contain more amino-acids, vitamins and trace elements than layers pellets. Not so long ago it was exceedingly difficult to buy breeders' rations because they were usually in bulk for the commercial sector but several feed companies do provide breeder pellets in 20kg bags. It is no good expecting excellent hatchability or sturdy chicks from parent stock that are fed a minimum ration or even just scraps and wheat.

Elderly birds will be less fertile than mature younger stock and if antibiotics have been administered because of an infection then this will affect fertility for a period as well. Fertility can also be affected by something as simple as too much fluff around the hen's vent area. Some breeds are more prone to this than others, such as the Orpingtons. If the eggs are clear after being incubated from over a week and the cockerel appears to be working properly, it could be that the hen's feathers around the vent area need to be trimmed back to aid contact during mating.

When selecting eggs for incubation only choose those that are not misshapen, have a good shell with no hairline cracks, ridges or ripples, especially at the base. The embryo in eggs that are incorrectly shaped or have other imperfections will not develop correctly and it is not worth taking up space in the incubator with them. Very dirty eggs are also not worth considering as mud or faeces will contain bacteria that could pass through the porous shell and membrane and contaminate the embryo. Even if the shell is washed with tepid water a stain often remains and the damage may already have been done.

The chances of dirty eggs can be lessened by making sure that nest boxes are kept clean with plenty of straw or shavings. This will also help to alleviate other problems, such as egg eating. If the nestbox has little litter in it an egg can easily get broken when the hen is moving around and once broken she will take the opportunity of having a good feed. Egg eating is a vice that needs to be stopped as quickly as possible or you could end up having no eggs left for incubation purposes. A broken egg in the nestbox should be cleaned up as soon as possible, removing any traces of egg contents that are left, then litter the nestbox well. Should this happen often, then continue to clean the nestbox as necessary but place some stone eggs or golf balls in the nesting area as well.

Fertility doesn't last long Collection and storage of hatching eggs is another important part of successful incubation. Eggs should be collected everyday and at least once a day if the weather is hot; for when the temperature is above 70 degrees F the embryo can begin to develop but without a constant temperature will die. Store the eggs in an egg tray or on a plate of dry sand, pointed end downwards in a cool, dry room. The wider end of the egg contains the air sac which should always be uppermost. Fertile eggs can only be stored for a short while. They are most fertile when fresh and fertility will gradually begin to decrease after a few days. Ideally do not store eggs for longer than a week to ten days if you want to have the best chance of hatchability. Whilst the eggs are in storage rotate them each day to prevent the embryo sticking to the membrane.

Eggs can be incubated the natural way by using a hen that has gone broody or artificially in an incubator. If none of the hens have gone broody by the time you wish to set the eggs collected then this is when an incubator is particularly useful. Incubators should be placed in a room with a constant temperature, not near a window where any sunlight could increase the heat and the temperature inside could fluctuate. Also, any draught from a door could have an adverse affect.

Countdown to hatching Most small incubators are self-turning these days and if you are still deciding on which one to purchase I would certainly recommend that the extra cost for an automatic turner is worth every penny. Although it is perfectly possible to be strict with yourself and manually turn the eggs three times a day - at a similar time each day - there are occasions when you might not be at home or forget!

Run the incubator for a while to get to the required temperature of 37.5 - 37.8 (depending on species and incubator) before inserting the eggs. These should have been wiped with egg incubation cleaner beforehand to eradicate any bacteria on the outer shell. Inside each incubator there are wells or trays in which to put water. This is to increase the humidity, an important part of the incubation, especially towards the latter stages when pipping commences. Do not be too quick to add water though, particularly if rainfall has been heavy in your area. It is possible for the chick to drown in the egg if the humidity is too great. The reason for increasing humidity nearer the pipping stage is to assist the chick to break through the shell. If humidity is low the inner membrane of the shell can become very dry and tough and it is possible for the chick to exhaust itself and die whilst trying to hatch.

Should a broody hen be used then place her in a broody coop, in a quiet area, or in a cardboard box containing shavings or chopped up straw in a predator proof shed and let her settle. It can be useful to put a couple of eggs as decoys under her for the first day or two until you are confident that she is happily 'sitting' in the prepared area. When she has accepted these eggs you can swap them for the eggs to be incubated whilst she is having her daily break. If anything, she will be even more pleased that suddenly further eggs have materialised and she can look forward to more chicks than she originally thought.

A broody routine Once a day - early afternoon is a good time - take her off the nest and in a penned area give her feed and water. After a few minutes she will also defecate. A twenty minute break is quite long enough for all this to happen and she will be quite ready to return to the nest. If left with access to the nest during this time she may try to go straight back to the eggs and not relieve herself properly or eat or drink sufficiently. Most broodies get into the routine after a day or two and soon know the procedure. In the period that the broody is off the eggs they will have cooled but not to the extent that it damages the incubation.

Large fowl and bantam eggs take 21 days to incubate, so keep a record of the date when hatching should commence. When this happens the broody will probably tell you by her body language that the eggs are pipping, in which case you should leave her during this period. She will not come to any harm and you may distress her and risk losing some of the hatching chicks if she is removed from the nest at this time. A broody fluffs herself even more during pipping and will begin to 'cluck', already talking to the chicks and encouraging them to escape the shell.

After several hours, maybe even the following day, check that all is well and offer the broody a drink. Place a chick drinker and chick crumbs in a feeder near the broody and she will happily feed on the crumbs as well as the chicks. Do not place adult feed down as she will automatically call the chicks to feed and this would be harmful to them. The broody will give the eggs a certain time to hatch - usually about two days - and after this period she will concentrate on the live chicks. When this happens, carefully clean out the area where she has been sitting and replace clean litter. Make sure that fresh water is replaced regularly as chicks have a habit of defecating anywhere and everywhere. Keep the feeder clean as well and always topped up with crumbs. Try not to disturb the broody and her chicks too much for she should be left to bond and brood in peace.