HATCHING using broody hens is the most natural form of incubation. The hens will in most cases have sat tight for the 21-day incubation period (ducks 28 days) and then will hatch the clutch themselves.

The success and the survival of the chicks depend on the circumstances in which they are to be reared. Most of us have the breeding birds penned in safe broody coops with a protected run and with a constant supply of feed and water. One point to remember is to use the correct chick drinker and feeder for the first few days to ensure the safety of the chicks. Narrow lipped drinkers save accidents from happening. Chicks seem to be attracted to water and in the very early stages can become stuck and drowned in unsuitable drinkers. If all these considerations are carried out then under these circumstances the survival rate should be excellent.

Most hens will, at some time in the year, go broody. This depends on the individual breed, and the ideal breeds are Silkies, Sussex and Wyandotte's (the editor would add Sumatras to this list but add the warning that you will never find them until they return with 20 plus chicks and then you can't get near any of them). There are certain breeds which are classed as non sitters, one of which is the Poland. Hybrids are not expected to go broody. It is always better to check that the breed you are using is suitable for brooding.

There is a very good chance that when you need a broody to sit your eggs there are no birds interested - this is why I tend to use an incubator wherever possible - but you can however tempt the bird to become broody by leaving her in a small pen with a small nest with eggs. In a lot of cases she will take to the eggs and start to sit as a natural process but this does not always work.

Get rid of Red Mite
Before you allow the broody to sit tight on the eggs make sure the nest area were she has decided to sit is insect free, do not allow her to sit anywhere there are any signs of Red Mite. This will not only threaten the life of the hen but it will also kill the chicks if left unattended. Make sure to spray and powder the area well and re check every few days for any infestations just to be sure. Red Mite love broody hens and their chicks because they are a static and a very easy target. last year we were inundated with calls reporting dead broodies and chicks all through the loss of blood to Red Mite. Be sure to check the broody is not going pale around the wattles and comb as this is a definite sign of an infestation. This paleness is the result of the mite sucking the blood. Be very vigilant.

The broody really needs to be on her own in a secure nest box when rearing her chicks, she needs to be away from the other birds in the flock and especially away from the cock bird. If you leave her to sit the eggs in the shed with the other birds, there is a good chance that the other hens will just carry on laying in the same nest. It soon becomes very overcrowded and there is also the risk that some of the other birds may eat the eggs especially if one is accidentally broken or will kill the chicks when they hatch. It is very possible that the cockerel will also cause problems with the chicks and in many cases will kill the youngsters. This is where the idea of the broody coop comes into it own; this protects the chicks from outside threats and also creates a haven for the mother hen.

Problems with young chicks vary. There can of course be many problems with any chicks whether hatched in an incubator or naturally reared. Diseases such as coccidiosis which is easily picked up by the young stock can be one of the main killers of chicks especially around the age of between 5 to 7 weeks. This problem shows itself as chicks which are fed up and droopy in a appearance, they also pass blood in the droppings. This disease will kill all the chicks if they are not treated with a correct anti coccidiosis treatment. The young birds will have to face many challengers on a daily basis before reaching their adult status. You need to have a chick ration (chick crumbs) ready for the hatch. It is very important to feed correctly to give them the best start. If caught without a chick ration, crush some wheat but get some chick crumbs immediately.

I am still amazed by the amount of calls we receive from people where their birds have been killed or injured by the family dog. A chicken is an ideal and very vunerable target and a play thing for any dog and in many cases the dog means no harm, it is just a bit of fun, but the young chick has no chance of either escape or survival. You need to check the reaction of your own dog when in contact with any animals but especially to both the chickens and the chicks. Teaching the dog to live in harmony with the birds is very important. Seek expert advice from a trainer before fatal accidents occur. Some breeds are better than others - a terrier may be more of a challenge than a lap dog.

Serious issue
My own dog has spent all his life living with all types of breeds of poultry and I have been very lucky that he has never yet even bothered to chase a bird, but some dogs are never compatible and cannot be left unattended in the same area as the birds. This is no disrespect to the dogs but it is a serious issue which has to be considered. You as the keeper of the birds are responsible for their welfare and that means protecting them from danger. If your dog kills them then you have failed in this duty.

Although the hen will do all the work as regards to training and rearing she needs to be kept as safe as possible, it is not unusual for there to be fox attacks during the day, the fox has become very urban and this creates a major problem when they realise that there is a very easy meal to be caught.

Chicks as I said earlier are very vulnerable to drowning, just check and make sure there are no deep or wide lipped drinkers and any water holes in which the chicks can get trapped and drown.

Rodent attacks on chicks are also quite common, so general rodent control must be a priority, make sure that the evening roost is rodent proof and secure, the chicks are possible the most risk as this time of the day and although the mother hen will defend her chicks she cannot stop a rat attack. Again your responsibility to not put her in this situation.

Return of the lost chicken
I always wonder how a broody goes away and you cannot find her, she may or may not survive but on many occasions when you are not prepared she will walk back in with a number of chicks in tow, if this does happen it is better to try and catch the whole bunch and pen them in safety, the fact that she has survived and hatched the brood does not necessarily mean she will remain safe.

Natural rearing can be hit and miss but so can incubation, what I do like about the natural rearing is that it tends to build up a better resistance to diseases in the chicks. The fresh air and natural surroundings all help to produce a good healthy birds as the weaklings will be lost through a natural process.

There are always arguments on which is the best method to produce your stock but the decision must be up to the individual breeder, what works for some people does not necessarily work for others.