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Parsnip 'Dagger'

PARSNIPS are a favourite vegetable of gardeners and allotment-holders and have remained consistently in the Top 10 for seed sales, even though they take up ground for a considerable number of months.

Some long-standing favourites, such as Hollow Crown', Student', Lisbonnais' and Tender & True', date back to the 1800s, all producing long, tapering roots of huge weights if given the space and the correct soil conditions. None of these are canker-resistant, although sowing time and soil temperatures play a major part in this problem. Developments in the 1960s, such as Avonresister', the first introduction with canker resistance, followed by White Gem' in the early 70s, which also showed a whiter, smoother skin than anything else and a noticeable improvement in canker resistance. White Gem', as an Offenham' type, produced more bulbous roots and not the long, heavy roots of most varieties at that time. Named selections within the Lisbonnais' and Offenham' groups appeared in the catalogues.

Nothing much changed until the release of British-bred Gladiator F1' in 1982 as the world's first hybrid, due to a chance find by Dr Peter Dawson, of Tozer's, of a male sterile plant growing among a population of wild parsnip alongside the A3 in Surrey. This breakthrough has given rise to F1 hybrid breeding programmes by several companies and their commercial use has made the older varieties almost redundant. The new hybrids provide improved uniformity, skin smoothness, a brighter white skin and flesh, and canker resistance. The shapes tend to be a slender wedge shape for the prepacking sector. You may notice in your supermarket that parsnips are available all the year round and that smaller "bayonet"-shaped roots are sold, often as "baby roots". Arrow' and Lancer', as open-pollinated varieties, are used but a hybrid programme has introduced Dagger' for this sector. These "bayonet" types are becoming increasingly popular to gardeners for four main reasons. Firstly, as the roots are smaller they are quicker maturing with more tender flesh. Secondly, the skin and flesh colour is a brighter white with more eye appeal. Thirdly, the canker resistance and quality is far better than the older varieties. Fourthly, roots are quicker to mature at closer spacings and successional sowings for harvesting over a much longer period. One must bear in mind that not everybody wants to eat parsnips during the summer, but the same can be said for leeks, savoys, and purple sprouting broccoli, which has varieties bred for the summer period. Parsnips do not need frosts or be frozen in the ground to be sweet, tender and "non-woody" (this is a myth because the cell tissue is damaged on freezing and the taste and texture of the flesh is affected).

Parsnips are predominantly from British breeding but Australia also has a programme for even whiter and smoother skinned, almost bleached, roots for that extra eye appeal. Certainly if these are introduced to the gardener they will need to check their soil quality and growing regimes to fully appreciate the extra whiteness, although of course looks shouldn't replace taste.

Sowing times also cause a lot of debate and failures in germination are notorious. It is a myth that seed needs to be sown in February, although the seed packets often state this. Earliest sowings in cold, wet soils can take more than six weeks to sporadically germinate, if at all. Certainly, if you want large roots for the showbench then you need to sow early in well-sieved, fine soil utilising drainpipes or oildrums so roots attain length and are not disturbed until showing time. For the gardener, the later in spring that sowing can be delayed the better, once soil has dried and warmed sufficiently. Late April and throughout May is ideal to give quicker and more reliable germination and nicely-sized roots with less canker incidence. Canker is more problematic with earlier sowings in cold soils. "Baby parsnips" can be sown till Early June.

Parsnips do best in soils that are in good heart but not too stony as any abrasions of the skin during growth can lead to blemished roots. As for all root crops, avoid fresh manure to minimise split or "fangy" roots. The use of well-rotted, crumbly manure or compost is fine, adding about 85g sq.m (3 oz per sq yd) of a general fertiliser raked in prior to sowing. Parsnip seeds are large enough to handle individually but are very light, so take care if sowing on a windy day! Sow in shallow drills about 20mm ( in) deep, three or four seeds per station with 8cm (3in) between each station (or closer for "baby" roots), and 30cm (12in) between rows. Thin to strongest seedling and discard others as they do not transplant reliably. Keep weed free. Once established parsnips should not require watering unless a prolonged dry spell occurs, then water profusely to give a thorough soaking or the roots may misshapen. Lift roots as required, although if left in the ground the leaves do die down in late autumn and unless you mark the roots they can be difficult to find. If harsh weather threatens, lift a few and store in boxes of barely moist sand or compost.

Canker is the worst fungal disease, showing as reddish brown turning black patches predominantly around the crown which can split and rot. Small patches can be cut out when preparing the roots for cooking. Otherwise carrot fly, all current parsnip cultivars are susceptible to carrot fly although often they grow undamaged. It is becoming increasingly difficult to predict fly attack as there are three main generations. A 45cm (18in) barrier of fine mesh or muslin around the plot, as you do with carrots, or covering with fleece once seedlings have been thinned will minimise any damage.

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