Let me introduce you to a rather special creature. A creature that makes a wonderfully entertaining and interactive pet. A creature that, in the past decade, has become a popular pet for working people unable to accommodate the needs of a pet dog, as well as housebound individuals. A creature the whole family can enjoy.

Ladies and gentleman, allow me to introduce the houserabbit. Yes, you did read that correctly. A rabbit that lives indoors. In the family home. Just like a cat. And yes, they do use a litter tray!

It is probably fair to say that readers of "Smallholder" regard rabbits in many different ways, ranging from vermin; to children's pets; or potential contents of a tasty pie. Furthermore, many readers will at some point have kept rabbits who probably lived in traditional wooden hutches, the way we have kept pet rabbits in Britain since Victorian times.

Ten years ago, the concept of a house-trained indoor bunny was alien to most people in the UK. Today, many people know someone with a houserabbit, even though most have not tried keeping an indoor bunny themselves. This article might inspire you to give it a go yourself, or, give you some tips to pass on if you ever decide to breed a litter of rabbits and sell the offspring as pets.

Why?

Life indoors as part of the family is beneficial to both rabbit and owner. Rabbits are social, active creatures - they never live alone in the wild, and are out of their burrows about 8 hours a day. Keeping a rabbit in a traditional hutch makes it very difficult to meet the basic physical and behavioural needs of the species. And there's no doubt that keeping a solitary rabbit permanently caged in a hutch is likely to cause suffering.

Therefore, anyone wishing to keep a pet rabbit (or, ideally, two rabbits) needs to think of something better! The two main options recommended by experts today are: A neutered pair (or colony) of rabbits, living outdoors, with sleeping accommodation plus access to a safe, spacious, predator-proofed, environmentally enriched run (preferably 24/7) Indoors as houserabbits Rabbits living outdoors are fascinating to watch, but unlikely to develop much of a bond with their owner/carer. This leaves indoor living as the only realistic option for people who wish to develop a bond with their pet rabbit.

To anyone who has only ever known rabbits in a hutch, meeting a houserabbit for the first time is quite an eye opener. Most people are astonished to discover how affectionate, intelligent and cute houserabbits can be. basking in front of the fire, snuggling up for cuddles, and begging for treats are all standard repertoire. Plus, although they are not ultra low maintenance pets, houserabbits can fit well into the lifestyle of a working person. Being crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk) means that pet rabbits are quite happy to bounce around morning and evening and rest up in their substitute burrow (aka cage!) in between.

How?!

Any rabbit can be a houserabbit. Cross-bred or pure-bred; male or female; small or large. You don't have to start off with a baby. In fact, rabbits over a year old are usually quicker to train as houserabbits, and it's easier to assess the personality of an adult rabbit. There's no reason a retired breeding rabbit; older hutch-dwelling pet; or rescue bunny, can't move indoors successfully. They just need to be neutered first (see below)!

What to expect from your houserabbit Training a houserabbit - like bringing up a puppy - is hard work. Rabbits can be demanding and destructive, especially as youngsters. The ultimate goal is a free-range houserabbit, but the use of a cage when unsupervised is advisable until your bunny can be left without wrecking the house!

Toilet training Rabbits are usually easy to litter train, although they must be neutered when they reach puberty. Although some rabbits virtually train themselves, it's better to help them get it right first time!

1. Cover floor of cage with newspaper. Put the litter tray in one corner, topped with a handful of hay.

2. Shut bunny in cage for at least 48 - 72 hours. Move any stray droppings or urine-soaked newspaper into the tray.

3. Once he is reliably using the litter tray, let him out for gradually increasing periods of time, supervising closely.

Remember that baby rabbits are easily distracted and take time to learn. It's also important to respect your rabbits' territory - don't venture into the cage when bunny is in residence!

Bunny proofing Rabbits chew. It's part of their nature, and they have to have outlets for this behaviour. Luckily, the destructive potential of a bunny is far less than, say, a Labrador puppy, but you do need to take chew-training seriously!

Your job is twofold: firstly, to provide a range of permitted chewing objects that are more attractive than the carpet and the furniture, and secondly, to put in the effort to train your bunny not to nibble such forbidden objects. This means teaching the command "no"; being ready to distract him with a more attractive alternative every time he chews something he shouldn't; and providing a constant supply of hay to eat, thus keeping both his tummy and his teeth busy! Your living room may be littered with cardboard boxes, willow balls stuffed with hay, and wicker baskets for a period when your rabbit is growing up or you could take the easy option and adopt an older bunny who is past the chewing stage!

"Bunnyproofing" is vital to protect both your possessions and your rabbit. For example, move house plants out of reach and cover electrical/telephone cables with plastic piping (slit lengthways) or conduit. You'll soon remember not to leave books and clothes on the floor! If your rabbit tries eating carpet or stripping wallpaper (most do at some stage), try this strategy: 1. Prevent access. Can you block the area off?

2. Prevent damage. e.g. fix clear perspex about the skirting board; place seagrass doormats in room corners to allow harmless chewing and digging.

3. Provide lots of irresistible chewable toys as alternatives (e.g. cardboard boxes; wicker baskets filled with straw; 'buster cubes').

One or more rabbits?

Bonded pairs of houserabbits are company for each other and a delight to watch. They may prefer the company of each other to you, but they will also help to keep each other out of mischief! In fact, most people who have kept a bonded pair swear they will never keep a solitary rabbit again.

Male/female pairs work best, but two brothers or sisters may stay together if you have them neutered before they start fighting. Whatever pair you choose, both must be neutered and introductions made gradually on neutral territory. Introducing rabbits can be a little tricky - there are detailed instructions in the "Bunny Buddies" section of the RWF website!

What about other pets?

Houserabbits often enjoy the company of other pets. If carefully introduced, dogs and cats will usually accept a houserabbit. It helps if the rabbit is confident and doesn't run away from the cat or dog. Don't leave them together unattended until you are certain it is safe to do so: some dogs might never get to this stage. If your cat hunts wild rabbits, choose a large or giant breed bunny!

Neutering Houserabbits of either sex really do need to be neutered: neutered rabbits are happier, healthier, much easier to litter train, and can live with another bunny without fighting or breeding. Rabbits can be neutered from 3 - 6 months (vets differ in their preferred minimum age to neuter) or as soon as possible thereafter. Otherwise you'll have a growling, messy teenage "bunny from hell" to contend with until the operation is performed!

Castration stops male rabbits spraying urine (yep, they're like tom cats if left intact!) and reduces aggression. Spaying - although a bigger operation - is strongly recommended. As well as reducing mood swings and aggression, spaying prevents the uterine cancer which is incredibly common in unspayed females.

Where to learn more The Rabbit Welfare Association (RWA) and its linked charity, the Rabbit Welfare Fund (RWF) started as the British Houserabbit Association 10 years ago. Detailed information (including downloadable leaflets) on keeping pet rabbits indoors and outdoors, plus health & care topics ranging from feeding to neutering, can be found in the Information section of RWF website www.rabbitwelfarefund.co.uk Further Reading Living with a Houserabbit (Linda Dykes & Helen Flack) Ringpress, 2003 The House Rabbit Handbook (Marinell Harriman) Drollery Press, 2005 Why Does My Rabbit? (Anne McBride) Souvenir Press, 2000 Rabbiting On - official journal of the RWA (included with RWA membership) - join online at www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk