LAYING hens are usually taken for granted, they just keep laying eggs and they are easy to look after. Easy maintenance is always quoted especially to the newcomer who has decided to attempt to enter the wonderful world of poultry keeping.

These type of statements are, of course, the wrong advice to give anyone about keeping poultry but there is an element of truth in the fact that commercial type egg laying chickens are relatively low in maintenance. On the other hand, all birds and animals need attention on a daily basis, and this means every single day for 365 days per year.

Assuming that you have chosen laying birds such as a hybrid suitable for your system (there are several types, among the most well known are Black Rocks, Hebden Black, Calder Ranger, Speckledy - but there are many others in the advertisements in Smallholder) achieving good results from your own flock is not difficult. The most important factor is that if you put good quality feed into the birds and the correct care then the results will be good, if on the other hand you just feed with whatever is available and also use so called treats then the results will speak for themselves. Several different causes can and will affect your birds' production and these include feed, additives, insect infestation, worms, stress and of course disease.

Feed
Always use a good quality layers pellet or a mash if you prefer because the specially prepared feed covers all the basic needs that the chicken requires to produce the eggs. The vitamins, minerals and the other ingredients are all added when the feed is produced so it is very similar to giving your dog a balanced diet and the same applies to your birds.

Feeding scraps and left over food from the home is fine if kept to a very limited amount, (though most scrap feeding is banned by Defra, especially meat scraps). Feed too many "scraps" and this will definitely effect production. Feeding wheat on its own is also another very good way of stopping the birds' laying - wheat or corn needs to be given as a type of scratch feed in a very small quantity in the afternoons only.

I always prefer to use hanging feeders with a guard ring to save wastage. The fact that the feeder is hanging also helps to keep the feed cleaner and healthier. I also leave access to feed all day and every day - the birds will take what they need as they need it.

If leaving feed in the run of house constantly always make sure that the feed is fully eaten before topping up with fresh feed to prevent any feed from going stale.

If during the day you do feed any type of treats such as broccoli, cabbage or fruit make sure they are cleared away in the evening as if these items are left on the floor of the run they will attract unwanted guests with pointy noses and long scaly tails.

Additives
Although today's feed is very good and balanced I am a big believer in a few natural additives, they can do no harm to you or the birds and can only help with the production, the welfare and times of stress such as the moult which is a difficult time for any chicken but especially one which is in fact an egg producing machine. The bird will try to produce enough calcium and vitamins to not only supply the eggs but also the need to replace the lost feathers. This time takes a lot of stamina out of the bird and is a risky time with regards the birds general health.

Cider vinegar
This is a natural product which is added to the drinking water and although it does very little towards egg production it does help keep worm infections under control and also keeps the bids gut clean and healthy.

Cod Liver Oil
This is a product which I try to use at least once a week and I mix this into the feed bucket - only a very small amount is required, say only a table spoonful per bucket Cod liver oil is a product full of natural ingredients which I am convinced helps the birds through laying and the moult.

It is also a good idea if you use a powder style wormer for your birds as when the feed is slightly dampened by the oil it helps the wormer powder stick to the feed and not disappear to the bottom of the bucket.

Wormers
Most of today's wormers are available only through your poultry vet, but there are exception which can be purchased over the counter the latest of these is a product which is named Verm X and is definitely getting very good reports, this product is available in both liquid and pellet form and is available from a number of retail outlets.

Flubenvet which is the powder wormer is now available from certain licensed store but most of the other wormers are now prescription only, also be aware that some product have a withdrawal period which can be anything from a few days to a couple of weeks. Verm X has no withdrawal period (withdrawal is the time after treatment when it is not suitable to use the eggs for human consumption) and this is obviously a very large consideration if you actually produce eggs to sell.

If you are unsure just contact your vet but try to use a vet who does know about poultry as there only a limited number of vets with the correct knowledge on the keeping and caring for poultry and birds in general.

Insect infestation
Any birds which are suffering from insect infestation will not produce eggs to their full capacity; there are lice and mite to contend with especially during the warmer summer months. The bird needs to be powdered or sprayed on a regular basis, in fact about once a month is ideal, to prevent lice. You need to check the product that it is safe to do this and always, however safe the product, use gloves and protect your skin and wash well afterwards. As with the wormers certain products are not recommended for use with egg producing birds, but it will give the information on the label. Barrier Health Care products produce an excellent range of powders and sprays for all type of insect control, none of there products carry a withdrawal period and are all suitable for organic use.

Red Mite is the scourge of the poultry keeper, with this problem both the bird and even more importantly the housing must be treated to help keep this dangerous insect under control. Again there are a number of suitable answers but the top of the league has to be either Barrier Health Care or the well known Poultry Shield Red Mite treatment. These products are well tried and tested and again no withdrawal period is required. Don't wait until you have Red Mite but work out a prevention programme involving moving the birds for a week or so and thoroughly spraying their house and then using louse powder in the litter on a regular basis.

If the birds have an insect problem this will prevent them from laying eggs. The Red Mite in particular weakens the bird from the blood loss the insect creates and the stamina from the bird disappears and so does the egg production. Keeping the birds environmentally clean and insect free means better healthier production and also a better environment for both yourself and the birds.

Disease
If the birds are ill then there is little chance that they will produce eggs, they will possibly not even eat and drink, but with correct management and care you can control and keep your flock disease free. One main point to remember is that if you have to introduce new stock into your birds make sure they are kept separately for at least one month to ensure that you are not introducing a problem from another source.

I would say that the most reported problem from people who have sick birds is just after the fresh stock has been introduced.

Always quarantine birds especially if you are not sure of the origin of this stock, remember most commercial birds are vaccinated from day old and if introduced into a non-vaccinated flock can cause there to be a problem in the future.

Egg eating
This is a problem generally caused by a bird standing on and breaking an egg, the chickens will go crazy to eat the raw egg. This is a problem you definitely do not want as the habit can spread right through the flock. Always try to keep the eggs cleared and if you do find a slight problem try using pot eggs in the areas were they have eaten, they will peck at the pot eggs until they realise they are not going to break and then give up through boredom, this hopefully cures them for the future. This works sometimes but not always.

To maintain a good healthy laying flock check you have the following:
a Healthy birds
b Clean birds and housing
c No external or internal parasites
d Good quality feed appropriately fed
e Possibly use additives especially in times of stress or cold weather
f Adequate number of feeders and drinkers - too few will mean that birds lower down the pecking order simply won't get enough food and water to lay
g Good management on a daily basis - the eye of the master is a good tool
h The correct breed of poultry - some pure breeds do not have a good laying record and if eggs are what you want, you should seek out one of the hybrid breeds.