LIVESTOCK are looking for something more exciting than just grazing to do and once they have experienced freedom will always be looking for more. Just like us they enjoy a bit of variety, so keep them secure from day one, so that they remain unaware of the exciting life to be experienced outside their own field.

Seriously though, we see so many of our clients wasting time and money, simply because their livestock keep escaping. The time taken to get them back in is part of your life wasted!

Whilst they are out, they are eating and/or trampling on something they shouldn't, which can be expensive in a variety of ways: n Poisoned animals n Destroyed crops n Decimated gardens n Alienated neighbours n Road traffic accidents You are also letting down the smallholding movement, by illustrating to everyone, that newcomers to agriculture are incapable of looking after their animals properly!

Fence types n Post and rail n Sheep and horse netting n Post and wire n Electric Post and rail Probably the smartest and most expensive of all types. Post and rail, when well erected using good materials is probably the longest lasting of all the above.

These fences can be made to last very much longer through the use of an electric "Hot wire" along the top or better still each side, to prevent horses, cattle, sheep and pigs from rubbing on them.

The materials for post and rail will cost between £4 and £6 per metre. They are labour intensive to erect, so double those figures for the total cost. Always use treated timber of adequate dimensions. Penny pinching on posts and rails will dramatically shorten the life of the fence, thereby wasting the money spent on erection.

Always get a quote before instructing a contractor and remember that the cheapest quote may not be the most cost effective.

Ask to see some work they did a few years ago. It is unwise to try and do this yourself; you will be wasting the cost of the materials, because the fence is unlikely to last.

Sheep netting A very effective and cost effective fence with a reasonable life expectancy of ten to fifteen years, after which time the wire will rust away.

Again the lifespan is directly related to the skill of the erector. It must be very tight when new and must stay tight over the years.

A "Hot wire" will lengthen its' live by years, particularly where horses and cattle are present.

For horses it may be wise to use special small mesh "Horse netting", which is too small for them to get their feet through.

Always allow one metre for the hedge trimmer when erecting fences alongside a hedge.

Construction details: The fence should be at least 1.05 metres high with any extra height achieved by the addition of plain or barbed and preferably electric, high tensile wire.

Straining posts of 2.15 metres and 125mm minimum top diameter must never be more than 150 metres apart. They should be 0.9 metres in the ground.

Long struts should be notched into them at 0.5 metres above ground level, and at an angle, no greater than 45 degrees from horizontal.

Intermediate posts of 1.7 metres and minimum 65 mm top diameter, should be spaced at maximum 3.5 metres, with 0.45 metres in the ground. The use of round posts is to be recommended, as half round ones never drive in vertically.

It is essential to have the fence line dead straight between each straining post. Erect these first and stretch a light, guide wire between them, before positioning the intermediate posts up to this guide. Knock all posts in until they are 20 mm higher than the netting.

Once all the posts are in position, put the netting in place and stretch it VERY VERY tightly between the straining posts. Use a vehicle to pull it tight and then wrap it round the post to secure it.

Only now should you staple the netting to the intermediates, leaving the staples slightly proud, so that the wire can just slide through, if necessary.

Once the netting is in place, you are ready to fix the "Hot wire" insulators, then the high tensile wire itself can be threaded into these before tightening it. A space of 15mm between the netting and the hot wire is to be recommended, to avoid them touching, even when old and becoming slack.

A special insulator must be used at each end of the hot wire, strong enough to take the tension.

Alternatively, plain wire or barbed wire can be used, but plain is ineffective and barbed can be dangerous to both man and beast once broken or slack.

Post and wire: Post and wire fencing should be erected in an identical manner to sheep netting.

Post sizes and spacing are the same.

The height should be at least 1.05 metres, using galvanised 4mm mild steel or 2.5 mm barbed wire, or equivalent strength high tensile wire.

High tensile wire, although more difficult to erect, can be pulled tighter and stays tight longer than mild steel.

Electric fencing: Permanent and temporary electric fencing can be very different, but the same techniques apply.

Straight lines between wooden or strong metal straining posts are recommended for a secure fence. Plastic posts are used only as intermediaries, supporting the wires at the desired height and spacing.

Many sophisticated kits, full of wonderful and clever equipment, are available for both jobs, much of which can be dispensed with if money is an issue.

We will describe how we do it on the NewLandOwner organic farm, where money is always an issue!

Wooden fence posts minimum 75mm top diameter, are used at the ends and on all bends.

Plastic bale string is used for most insulation and for tensioning.

Plastic electric fence wire, with metal woven into it is used for every application, permanent or temporary.

One, two or three strands are placed at the appropriate height for the stock to be restrained.

(For poultry, up to nine strands have been used, with the top one at 2 metres high.) We have never used plastic netting and believe it is more difficult to keep free of growing grass and weeds.

We believe in several basic principles, when erecting every electric fence, permanent or not: 1. The wire must be stretched very tight (Two metres stretch in every 100 metres.) 2. Every change of direction must have a wooden post.

3. Intermediate plastic posts are used ONLY for supporting the wire at the desired height.

4. Grass and weeds must be cleared from under the fence to reduce "Earthing". This is not nearly so important when a mains powered energiser is used, but very important with a battery.

5. The power of the shock is checked every day and faults repaired immediately.

Procedure: Decide on the line of the fence and knock in the wooden straining and corner posts.

Stretch the wire between the posts by hand, securing and insulating it with bale string.

Where the fence changes direction, even slightly, secure it to a wooden post. Keep the wire on the livestock side of the post, to prevent them rubbing the post over.

Insulate it with bale string or a screw-in insulator, depending on direction of the bend.

With multiple wires, do the bottom one first, then put the plastic intermediates in place, and set the wire height before placing the next wire above. Finish with the top wire and connect them all together electrically in several places.

Connect to the energiser and check the strength of the shock with a proprietary tester. A strong shock is required to train animals (4000 to 5000 volts. The very low amps render it painful but harmless).

Once trained they will be controlled by 2 to 3000 volts, until very hungry or sexually frustrated!

Where the field is level an intermediate post every 15 metres is adequate for trained animals. On undulating ground, many more posts will be required to maintain the correct height of the bottom wire.

Electric Wire Heights above ground level: Ewes and Lambs: 150mm, 300mm and 500mm Weaned lambs: 200mm and 500mm Cows and calves: 400mm and 800mm Cows or yearlings: Between 600mm and 800mm depending on size and temperament.