What is France really like?

In central Britanny, where we live, the economy relies largely upon agriculture, with an abundance of intensive units housing pigs, calves, poultry and rabbits.

In addition to the bigger concerns, smallholdings are abundant, both as small commercial enterprises, and those farmed by individuals who are virtually self sufficient. Because of the climate, which produces a very high annual rainfall, with good summer weather, but rarely excessive heat, conditions are ideal for both crops and livestock.

For the past two or three years, le Cotes d'Armor has been the only Breton Department not to have strict water restrictions between March and October. The standard of farming is very high, with all edible stock usually being given the best possible care, but sadly this quality of care is not always given to domestic pets, which are rarely spayed or neutered, resulting in huge numbers of puppies and kittens either being drowned or left to totally fend for themselves. This is considered quite normal, and is less costly than visiting a vet!

Although Normandy is perhaps the more usually recognised Department for milk and associated products, Britanny also has many cattle herds, with the breeds including Limousin, Charollais, Parthanaise, Normande and a type of Friesian, plus all the X bred meat cattle. Natural herds are to be seen everywhere, and it's a joy to see these family groups. We've not yet seen a Jersey herd, but there must be some somewhere, as they are the favourite breed for a house cow, and there are a number of these kept around us.

The Breton horse is another familiar sight, and not only is this a very attractive breed, to be found in varying shades of chestnut, with flaxen mane and tail, but it is also truly an "all rounder." Good to work, good to drive, good to ride and, sadly, good to eat - I would add that I cannot personally vouch for the authenticity of the last attribute. We regularly pass a family group of three mares and a stallion, and each year the parents and foals are a delight to watch.

Sheep are not to be seen in the large numbers common in Wales, Northern England and Scotland. The sheep we do see are several of the British breeds, plus Charollais and l'Ouessant. The latter is a very ancient breed, originating on the Ile de l'Ouessant, situated off the West coast of Brittany and in colour are normally black. They are very hardy, and the ewes produce a single lamb, which they manage to deliver without help, and in the open - very easy sheep!

There are increasing numbers of people arriving from the UK to live "the good life," attracted by the low cost of property, which, in rural areas, usually includes quite sizeable areas of land. Sadly, a number of these haven't done their homework before making the move, believing that all they have to do is arrive with their CV's in hand, and they will be instantly employed.

Nothing could be further from the truth. There just aren't that many jobs available, and those which are on offer will go to Bretons. The exceptions are working in the slaughterhouses, transporting poultry, cleaning out the pig units, etc, jobs which the Bretons avoid. Recently I heard of someone who had been 'phoned by the French equivalent of the labour exchange with an offer of work jet washing mausoleums! Not everyone's choice.

The sudden acquisition of land, not the neat lawn and flower bed size, which was the norm in the UK results in many people seeking livestock to put on it! As the majority of these new "smallholders" have again not researched adequately, it is common to see advertisements such as "a couple of goats wanted to keep the grass down." This ignorance of what goats really need to eat, plus the attention to feet, worming, and the provision of water and shelter, is also applicable to sheep, pigs, rabbits, poultry and waterfowl, resulting in many of these animals being cared for so badly that it amounts to cruelty. (See the picture of Maya!) The SPA, the French RSPCA equivalent, is grossly overloaded and under financed and just cannot deal with the number of cases which flood in daily from all directions.

Our house, a 17th century stone building, came with a five-acre pine forest, an acre of garden, plus another acre and a half down the lane. We had decided long before we actually moved to Brittany, that we would not keep livestock, and we haven't regretted this decision.

The pine forest needs little attention, but does provide some burning wood from fallen trees, a safe badger sett, and in the autumn, also produces a mass of assorted "mushrooms," some of which are edible. We have parasols and ceps, which we know to be safe to eat, but the other six or seven varieties received a very definite "non" when Mervyn took them to the pharmacy for identification - the pharmacists here are all trained to carry out this check, which is free of charge, which I'm sure prevents some very bad happenings.

On the edge of the forest, Mervyn has repaired the dam which held water in a large pond, and this is now functional, and very pretty, as well as attracting occasional mallard, which is a bonus, as there are very few waterfowl to be seen anywhere. Another bonus is the colony of long eared bats which live in our barn - pretty little creatures which give us great pleasure.

We also have an abundance of sweet chestnut trees, which are incredibly productive, but there's a limit to the number of chestnuts which we can eat so most of them just fall and lie, as they do all around us. If we're in the mood, we'll pick up a few buckets full, and give them as feed to our friends for their pigs - there is a plus to this, as we also save all our scraps for them, and we are promised pork when the pigs are slaughtered!

The acre plus of what is now grass was a real challenge, covered with brambles and bracken, which had been allowed to grow unchecked for too long. During last autumn and winter, Mervyn slowly strimmed the whole area, and we made massive bonfires of the rubbish. We only just finished in time, as bonfires are forbidden between the end of March and the beginning of October - what a pity that this is not law in the UK!

Where we are, a ride on mower is not a status symbol, but an absolute necessity, and we managed to buy one second hand, only six months old, and this has been put to constant use. It also has a trailer attachment which we use for logs, and for taking our garbage to the hamlet rubbish bins - no dustmen here in the sticks!

In Brittany, the authorities are very environmentally aware, and re-cycling is almost an art form. In addition, there are more and more wind farms springing up, which is great unless they happen to be in front of your windows! All the departments are split into what are called Communes, each with its own Mayor (362 in Cotes d'Armor alone!) who is responsible for all that goes on in his or her commune, and they have a large say in everything which goes on - good terms with the Mairie is a must!

As the wind farms provide an additional source of income for the communes, they are often welcomed, but in cases where opposition is strongly against, this is very positive, very noisy, and on occasion, quite physical. Normally, after such expressions of opinions, the windmills are taken elsewhere. A common and very strong Breton characteristic is the resistance to being directed by authority.

A very important part of Breton life is La Chasse, which is ongoing between late September and March. Over a period of time, the game, which includes deer and wild boar, hares and rabbits, as well as land and water birds, has been shot out.

I'm never quite sure how, as the members of La Chasse seem to operate with packs of dogs which are enjoying a rare taste of freedom; which they're not going to waste on hunting: accompanied, rather than led, by men whose aim is not good at 9 am and by noon, topped up by the obligatory glasses of vin rouge, is downright lethal.

They all have a very jolly time, rarely make a kill, and although there were a large number of fatal accidents last year, mostly after noon, we all wear red clothing when we venture into the countryside in the hunting season, and just hope that this will protect us. The end of a hunting day is often marked by the sound of horns, not as a signal, but as a desperate attempt to recall their happy hounds.

These dogs are smart, and know that if they do return to their owner, their reward will be a kick in the ribs or a beating, so they largely ignore the horns, and return home at their leisure!

The pictures of the sheep, the pigs, not forgetting Maya, were taken on the smallholding of a very dear friend of ours - Marilyn also happens to be our very patient and long suffering French tutor. She was born in Champagne, but lived in England for 15 years before she and her husband, Trev, decided to move to Brittany to fulfil their dream, both giving up very well paid jobs to do so. Although life is not easy for them, they are very happy with their lifestyle here. I would like to make it quite clear that the state of Maya's waistline is not the fault of her new owners - before being given to Marilyn and Trev, Maya resided with owners who, in their wisdom, fed her nothing but gateaux and bread.

Now, on a very strict dietary regime, this Vietnamese Pot Bellied pig is not happy, as the look on her face shows, but she will no doubt live longer Wonder how the breed got its name - I'm sure it wasn't all cakes and bread as a standard diet for the breed in days gone by, but they were still pot bellied.